Autumn, for many Italians, is more than a season. It’s a return to simplicity, to the warmth of home, and to conviviality around a table. After the summer holidays, the heat, and the long evenings spent outdoors, comes that time when we rediscover the joy of a good book, a chat with friends, and food that warms the soul. As the days shorten and the leaves slowly turn yellow and red, the craving for comfort food grows stronger, and we find ourselves longing for a platter of italian salami, a good cheese, and a glass of red wine, perhaps watching the leaves fall outside.
But for us Italians, and not just in Puglia, autumn is also a season of deep-rooted traditions. Traditions that evoke childhood memories, family ties, and community from the north to the south of our peninsula. Today, I want to share some of these customs that not only shaped my youth but are part of the cultural heritage shared by many Italian families.
The Grape Harvest: A Family Tradition
September brings one of the most important events of the year for those of us from a land of wines: the grape harvest. In Puglia, my region, it is a tradition that marks the beginning of autumn, even though it sometimes starts as early as August for certain grape varieties. But the harvest is not only a tradition in Puglia: From the Tuscan hills to the vineyards of Veneto, Italy as a whole celebrates this ritual that unites generations. The grape harvest is not just about collecting grapes; it is a communal event where friends and family come together in the vineyards, work side by side, and celebrate.
I still remember the sweet smell of freshly picked grapes, the sticky hands, and the feeling of being part of something ancient and valuable. The grapes destined for great Puglian wines like Primitivo or Negroamaro come to life during this period. In Emilia-Romagna, a region renowned for Aceto Balsamico di Modena, autumn also brings the grape harvest, which here combines with the tradition of transforming the must into that precious dark and aromatic liquid we all know. The harvest is not just work: it is a moment of festivity, anticipation, and celebration.
In the Autumn Woods: Mushrooms and Chestnuts
Another autumn tradition that takes me back to my childhood is the search for mushrooms and chestnuts. In many Italian regions, autumn means heading into the woods in search of porcini mushrooms. Walking through the woods, breathing in the fresh, crisp air while searching for the perfect porcini, is an activity I still love. Of course, we always do this with care, perhaps bringing along someone knowledgeable to avoid unpleasant surprises. There’s nothing better than coming home after a day in the woods and roasting chestnuts, perhaps accompanied by a glass of red wine and a piece of cheese.
The smell of chestnuts roasting over the fire always brings me back to those autumn evenings when hands warmed around the small fruits and the family gathered to tell stories. This tradition unites all of Italy, from the mountains of Trentino to the hills of the Apennines, where chestnuts and mushrooms are a true treasure from the earth.
Tomato Sauce: Family Unity
In Southern Italy, autumn also marks the time for making tomato sauce. It is a tradition that involves the entire family. As a child, I remember that the whole house transformed into a small factory: tomatoes were boiled, passed, and bottled with great care. Each of us had a task: I was responsible for placing a fresh basil leaf in each bottle, that little touch that gave the sauce an unforgettable aroma. It was a moment of unity, of shared work, but also of joy because we knew that our reward would be high-quality tomato sauce for the whole year.
This tradition is repeated from north to south in many Italian homes. Each region has its own variation, but the heart of the ritual remains the same: the family coming together around a simple but extraordinary product.
Olive Oil: The Nectar of Autumn
Another autumn tradition that I feel deeply is the olive harvest and the production of olive oil. In Puglia, this is a true art form. But not only here: in Tuscany, Sicily, and many other Italian regions, the olive harvest marks the beginning of a period of hard work and satisfaction. The olives are beaten from the trees and taken to the mill, where the liquid gold is born. The mill was an almost magical place for me as a child: the scent of freshly pressed oil, the fruity and intense flavor that pairs perfectly with a slice of crusty bread. It’s one of those flavors you never forget and represents the essence of autumn in Puglia and beyond.
Autumn: A Tribute to Life and Flavors
Autumn is a season of transition, but also of celebration. Its colors not only paint the landscape but also mark the rhythm of our lives. The grape harvest, the olive harvest, the tomato sauce: all these traditions remind us that we are part of a larger cycle, that the fruits of the earth accompany us and mark the passage of time. And in every corner of Italy, autumn is a time to rediscover the value of small things, of simple and genuine food.
And as the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, we gather around a table, sharing simple food rich in history, in a tribute to conviviality and the beauty of life. In the end, autumn is just that: a season that invites us to slow down, enjoy authentic flavors, and rediscover the warmth of traditions that bind us to our land and our roots, no matter where we are in Italy.
Buon appetito!
